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Just got my first fruit off my blueberry plant, so I thought it's a good time to ask for ID since there's leaves, flowers, buds, and fruit on at the same time.  Just would like to get it ID if possible, so it's easier when I want to add to my collection ^^ It's better to have the variety name when sharing out cuttings/suckers too...

The plant loose almost all its leaves in winter, and it started with a few early flowers, which are now filling out with the first one harvested today.  Only just getting a big flush of flowers now.

It's in a pot, and it suckers within the pot.... 

Checking back on the catalogue of the nursery I bought my plant from, they had Biloxi, Misty, and Gulf Coast... Does anyone have one of these that looks like mine?

I have a sharpe blue (not in these photos), which seems to have slightly lighter green, and rounder leaves, and whiter flowers.  The leaves on these photos appears a little bluer than the real thing.

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The fruit size suggests Gulf Coast. Is it a taller than usual plant? GC is a highbush that does well here.

I don't recall those fluted flowers so will check mine in the morning.

I have Biloxi too planted in the one 200L bin with its pollinator Sharp Blue. The fruits are not as large as Gulf Coast.

My 3 varieties are all fruiting now virtually impossible to tell which is first nor without looking at the labels, which is which. Except for GC which is a more upright plant with larger fruit.

I think this may be the biggest fruit I'll get because this is the first fruit this season...
The tree was neglected the last couple of years, so the current shape may not be its normal growth habit... Although it is comparatively more upright than my sharpe blue, which seems to have a more sprawling growth habit.  The suckers grow straight up, but only short at the moment... might try to get a full body photo of the plant and its suckers tomorrow...

Some pix are here.

I think judging from Elaine's description, these are Gulf Coast ...

A bit late, but these are full body photo of mother plants, and sucker from last year, and suckers this year.

Fascinated that the BBs sucker. So far none of mine have. I'm not familiar enough with them to know if it's a common effect or not.

Yes it's definitely a blueberry! The trouble with me trying to identify against my bushes is that I don't know what mine are! I bought three at once and two died as a result of them being in a very sunny spot without water when we went away (a familiar story), but I don't know which one survived. Sorry to be such a pain. Mine are fruiting well now. I have taken cuttings from them and a couple have survived, I must practice doing this more as it's a great way to increase the harvest. I now have a little green house type structure where I can better nurse cuttings. I think a lot to do with success here is the timing of taking the cuttings. This time I did just around bud burst time. Anyone else tried to do this with Blueberries?

I tried last year ~ They took.  The suckers grow a lot faster than the stem cuttings, where the sucker already have flowers and baby fruits this year, but the stem cuttings are still small.

I would try again, but need to get some acidic potting mix...

I thought it would be difficult to tell the different blueberries apart, but just giving it a try.... it would be better for swapping if we know the varieties, so we don't get the same one in a swap ~

I'm now just missing a picture of misty ~ Comparing with Elaine's I think mine's more like Gulf Coast ~

I never know how much sun to give cuttings. Do you want to expose them so they produce energy and put out roots, or do you want to protect them so they don't dry out? How much sun did you give yours Florence and Roger?

HI Rob, I put them under the pergola where I can keep them watered everyday... Tough ones (like trident maple, Fig) and ones I don't care if they take or not, I put them under larger potted trees, so that they get shade and some protection from wind.  I had an orange cutting like this dried up after a couple of months when it started budding.  So I think definitely under the pergola for blueberries.

There are certain species that works better in complete darkness called "Etiolated Cutting"... I came across that when I researched about avocado cuttings, apparently avocado need to be in total darkness to improve strike rate.  I have had no success with avocados, so I am thinking to give that a try, but there's not a lot of information about etiolated cuttings online...

Afaik, Avocados and Mangoes don't easily strike from cuttings. They use grafting as we know and (can't remember the name now), but with Lychees they get roots from damage to a branch. There's a proper word. They are all tricky to get right. Grafting is a well-known technique in its many forms - or well-known to the professional nursery people.

I have a cutting mango that was given to me in a chooks forum meeting, and it's been growing strongly and gave me a couple of fruits last year ^^ I haven't been to their meeting since, so I didn't get a chance to ask what it was and how she did it.... but when I got it, it appears to be rooted in clay soil, not potting mix.

Lychees, and Longans are normally murcotted (aka airlayer).


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