Brisbane Local Food

Growing local

A system much used in Biodynamic growing but not widely used even with organic growers but getting better known and practiced.

The value is significant. The microbes which are vital for the plant's health need to be kept alive and thriving even though there isn't a crop in just now. My observation is that with mulch over fallow, the ground dries out with a conventional in-ground garden. With a cover crop, the soil can remain moist if the crop is watered as needed. This way the soil and its invisible inhabitants are kept in good spirits until the next food crop is planted. And with little effort, the organic matter content of the garden is increased. Leave the roots in and chop down the top, dig in if you wish or just chop and drop.

The varieties of plants used for cover crops are endless. Ranging from whatever you have to spare, to bird-seed to specialised seasonal crops usually high in legumes.

I've used the 'what I've got to spare' system and the 'bird-seed' system. Something growing is better than nothing. But ... I've found the bird-seed to be heavy in grasses - millet and corn especially. Grasses are fine, have excellent fibrous roots. But their growing-points are well down near the roots (that's why you can mow grass and rarely kill it). That's a two-edged sword ... The grasses cut down and drop just fine but they grow back up again! So you're revisiting the chop and drop several times before the plants run out of energy. By this time I've run out of energy too.

Vary the plants used to get a spread of nutrients and select plants which will die once cut down. These include Sunflowers, Buckwheat, Lucerne (Alfalfa) various Peas and Beans and the very available Mung Beans. The Peas will often shoot again but a couple of cuts and they die out. Now, I read about legumes increasing the nitrogen content in the soil. Yes, they do but they need specific bacteria to make that happen. There are inoculants available and they have to be obtained from specialist suppliers, sometimes this is not very feasible. I do use legumes but don't inoculate. My Lucerne which is 'Alfalfa' escaped from a tray of spent sprouts, does not have nodules on the roots. But it does grow very well, has big enthusiastic roots and flowers and re-seeds happily. I chop it down regularly for mulch. My el cheepo version of Lucerne Hay.

So I've found that if I use seed mixes containing grasses, I need to uproot the whole lot and lay it down roots and all on top of the soil. This is not the most satisfactory way of doing things, the microbes in those roots will probably die when exposed to air and sun. Not quite what I had in mind!

In the photos you'll see that mostly the cover crop is quite dense. If using large seeds like Sunflower and Buckwheat, around .5kg per 1 square metre at a rough guess would be the sowing rate. Whatever seeds you use, sow as thickly as you can, you can never have too much cover crop!

I started digging at it with this beaut tool - it's a great tool for pulling apart compressed copra but not for digging up plants:

I pulled up handsfull of plants and laid them down so the tops were covering the roots of the ones behind them:

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Comment by Ania on December 26, 2013 at 20:09
This makes perfect sense. Perhaps why my densely planted raised beds are thriving so; there are all kinds of seedlings underneath in every spare space and the moisture holds well. I will definitely try this Elaine, thanks for the tute :)
Comment by Jane on December 26, 2013 at 16:43

wonderful growth Elaine. My 2year old Eggplant had bad nematodes, pulled them out & burnt. Have put in a cover crop of mustard, marigolds & lots of rocket as I had plenty, will dig them in soon also treat the soil with molasses in the hope of detering the critters. Think the problem was excerbated by leaving the eggfruit for the second year, find if I grow root crops like carrots & beetroot quickly I have them out of the ground before the nematodes get going.

Comment by Christine Cox on December 26, 2013 at 9:41

I am looking forward to trying this.

Comment by Elaine de Saxe on December 26, 2013 at 8:22

Early days Christine. Seedlings do grow well anyway because of the nutrients contained in the seeds - with sprouts you don't need to fertilise unless you're growing on past the 2-leaf stage. The soil is a mix of el cheepo potting mix, coir, 5 in 1 and Vermiculite. It's in layers and I'm expecting the worms to mix it for me.

Comment by Christine Cox on December 26, 2013 at 6:59

How amazing is that growth The soil looks wonderful Are you finding the system works well I am working on Glen for a renovation on my raised garden beds.

Comment by Elaine de Saxe on December 26, 2013 at 5:59


Comment by Andrew Cumberland on December 25, 2013 at 23:47

Be wonderful if you had chooks as well. 

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Vetiver grass helps to stabilise soil and protects it against erosion.  It can protect against pests and weeds. Vetiver is also used as animal feed. (Wiki.)

GrowVetiver is a plant nursery run by Dave & Keir Riley that harvests and grows Vetiver grass for local community applications and use. It is based in Beachmere, just north of Brisbane, Australia.

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