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'Full sun' on most seeds/plants does not mean what we get here in Dec-Feb! Hold back on investing in trees until you've figured out what your really need. Once planted it's hard to dig them up and move them. If you're going for above-ground (either garden beds or wicking beds) I'd go for some moveable shade until you are sure you know what you need.
Welcome back Sophie :)
Elaine gives good advice.
I planted out some strawberry runners last weekend from a friend, straight after some wonderful rain. Went to check on them and give them another drink and they all look to be dead in the heat. Cooler weather is coming :)
This hot and windy and dry weather is brutal to seedlings and I have lost many despite my best efforts to attend to their needs.My latest work around is this.
I have many plates and shallow bowls --collected el cheapo at Op and Dump shops -- and I've put them to work by facing their backs to the western sun. Cools the roots.
So far/so good.The shallow bowls work better than the dinner plates because they stand up better in my sandy soil.
I've used tiles before but they fall over so easily...and I was angsting over the pile of plates in the corner of the garden (I use them for terracotta watering pot lids) when I thought about an upright usage.
The garden looks weird -- indeed weirder than it did with just the flying saucer lids parked about. But then, the main game is nurturing the seedlings. My shade plans have not developed as fast as I'd hoped.
But the plates/bowls have a few things going for them:
I've built shade structures before only to have them blow down and about. So I switched to plant polycultures by marrying plant heights for shade but my shaded areas aren't enough in places...so I added the plates.
Some folks use shade cloth on frames and there are some great designs to be used.
Ah, iPads are beyond my experience; I'm a Mac desktop person, the limit of my knowledge.
Lasagne gardens are tried and true. Take time for them to consolidate into decent soil so you need to water them frequently for the first several months at least. You can put lasagne gardens on top of concrete but they do need looking after.
Covering with newspaper is OK but you need to put holes in it for the earth to breathe and the water to enter. Try a cover crop instead. There's quite a few posts here on BLF on cover crops, some quite recent. Have something - even weeds - growing at as many times as you can. Feeds the microbes and worms who are the basis of soil health and plant health.
Easy on the wood ash. It is very alkaline and can be water-repellent unless mixed with soil/potting mix. Has a place for potash (K = Potassium) but in small quantities.
I fill the bottoms of my wicking beds (and I have a couple of dozens) with el cheepo potting mix. Seems OK. Lot depends on the mix above. There's lots of posts here on BLF on wicking beds and lots of variations on the theme. There's even a Wicking Bed group. There's a garden visit to my place in July if you want to look at various kinds of wicking beds.
Welcome back, Sophie!
Post images: in the text box that is used to type in prior to posting, you will see a title bar with (from left) Link, Image, Video, Text ...
Hover your mouse over each icon to get the name of the icon.
Have your pix already edited down to around 100-400k, no more as those with slow connections will wait forever for them to download. Have the window with the pix in it ready on your desktop.
When your are ready to place your image, click on the Image icon. You will get a window asking you from where you want to take the image. Click on 'Computer' and you will get a window allowing you to navigate to your pix.
Choose the one you want and hit 'upload'. When it is finished you can see it inside the text box. Keep typing until you need the next pic and so on.
When you're happy with your post and the pix. choose Post (or is it Save'? Anyway it is obvious what is meant.
You can edit at any time by choosing Edit Post from the Options menu on top right of page.
Seeds are often best set to grow in individual pots in semi-shade somewhere close to where you are so you can keep an eye on how damp they are.
With clay or other difficult soil, pots are a good alternative. Wicking pots are the lest bothersome to maintain although with any pot or raised garden, filling them initially is quite a chore. Once done they only need topping up and keeping damp.
Always add photos using the "From my computer" option, even if you are on a mobile phone or other device.
Added by Tyler Lee
Added by Doug Hanning
Added by Doug Hanning
Vetiver grass helps to stabilise soil and protects it against erosion. It can protect against pests and weeds. Vetiver is also used as animal feed. (Wiki.)
GrowVetiver is a plant nursery run by Dave & Keir Riley that harvests and grows Vetiver grass for local community applications and use. It is based in Beachmere, just north of Brisbane, Australia.
Talk to Andy on 0422 022 961. You can Pay on this link
© 2021 Created by Andrew Cumberland.
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